While it seems like a lot of work, installing drapery hardware is a straightforward task you can complete by yourself with basic tools. Measure and mark at a spot above the window frame to indicate where the rod will go. The location of this mark depends on the window and your drapes. A mark at about 4 inches above the window is ideal for drapery that falls just below the sill.
For drapery that falls to the floor, measure the drapery length, and add 1 inch to that measurement. Mark your spot at this height from the floor.
Make sure the bottom of the fabric grazes the floor when placed at the height of your mark. Subtract the width of the window from the rod width. Divide this number by two, and mark a spot at this measurement on each side of the window at the height your first mark.
Drill a hole at each of the marked spots. Position the brackets on the wall so the bottom mounting hole of the bracket lines up with the pre-drilled hole. Insert a screw into the bracket-mounting holes and tighten with a screwdriver. Curtains that hang below the sill should extend 4 inches 10 cm below the sill, long enough to cover the edge of the casing below the window. Sill-length curtains should skim the sill.
Consider how far you want to be able to draw back the curtains. If you'd like to pull them completely away from the window, buy a longer rod or a rod that has a return a degree turn on each end that allows you to push the curtain around the turn or rest against the wall.
The length of the return should depend on the type and width of the curtain. Choose whether to install the rod on the casing or the wall outside the casing. Installing in the casing will always leave at least part of the window obscured, while installing outside the casing allows you to pull the curtains back completely.
Which you choose will partially be determined by the style and look you want, but you may also have to account for the material of the wall or casing. If you have plastic window casing, the curtain rods will need to be installed on the wall. Bear in mind that the curtain will only draw back as far as the brackets holding the curtain rod, whether or not you have a return, and the style of the curtain will determine how much they can be compressed.
The amount you can compress a curtain is called the stack back. You may want to keep part of the window covered even when the curtains are open, or you may prefer to completely expose the window to let as much light into the room as possible. If you can't install a curtain rod in your wall, attaching it to the window frame or casing is a great option.
Part 2. Measure for the height of the rod. Use a measuring tape. Determine where the top of the curtain will be from where you want the curtain to end: at the sill, below the sill or on the floor. Bear in mind that some styles of curtains have ruffles or pleats that extend above the top of the rod; subtract this section from the measurement.
Mark this point on both sides of casing or wall with a pencil. Use a laser level to make sure your marks are even. Mark where the brackets will go. When you're sure of all your measurements, use a pencil to mark where the screws will go.
Add a mid brace if needed. Consider the length of the rod when hanging the brackets. Though most curtain rods are adjustable, you don't want the distance between the brackets to be so wide that the rod sags in the middle. In general, you shouldn't increase the length of the expanded rod by more than 50 percent.
Drill pilot holes to help start the screws. This can keep the screws from cracking the casing or wall material. If installing the brackets on the wall, make sure your pilot holes are big enough to place the screw anchors into, if you need to use screw anchors. Screw anchors are only necessary if the rod brackets are spaced in such a way that they cannot be attached to the wall studs. If you want to avoid using screw anchors, make sure that your brackets are spaced to go just " beyond the casing.
If you can't screw directly into the wall, then use a tension rod instead. Screw the brackets to the casing or wall. If installing them on the wall between studs, you need plastic screw anchors. These will expand inside the dry wall panel to the weight of the rod and curtains and will prevent the screws from pulling out of the wall.
Otherwise, you can simply use the manufacturer included or suggested mounting screws. Check for level. Fit the rod onto the brackets and then use a carpenter's level to make sure that the rod is even. It should be, as long as you measured for level when marking the locations for brackets. Put the curtains on. Remove the rod again and put the curtain on the rod.
Hang the rod on the brackets. Now you're done! Good job! A thick rod will draw the curtain up, making it hang too high. Karen Parziale. Bay window dimensions aren't universal, so you can't just go to store and get one. You have to get them custom made. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. How do I hang a curtain rod if I live in an apartment and I can't drill into the studs? You can always get a tension rod. Just hang it inside of the window frame and then hang the curtain from that.
It may not be the most elegant solution in the world, but it will definitely work! Should the tops of the curtains be the same height as the window frame, or a few inches higher than the frame? To make your windows look larger, it's recommended that you hang the curtains near the ceiling. Otherwise, two or more inches above the frame looks best. But it's a matter of preference. Not Helpful 6 Helpful I am hanging lightweight curtain rods in the bedroom. Everything is done, but at the end of the rod there is a small decorative ball with a screw, and I have no idea what to screw this into.
The small screw is usually to stop the ball sliding off the pole when it is in situ. It just tightens onto the curtain pole when the ball is slotted on. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 8. My drill only goes so far into the wall, so I can't get my screw anchor in all the way. What should I do?
If your drill only goes in so far, you have one of two problems. The first possible issue is that your drill may not be up to the job, and the second issue is that you may be butting up against a steel or concrete lintel. You could test drill the wall ten inches higher and fix there if your test is successful, or you can establish what lintel you are trying to drill into.
Steel will be magnetic on its upper and lower edges H section and sometimes over its whole face box section ; otherwise, it will be concrete.
It is not good to drill into lintels because it weakens them. If you still want to do so, you will need either an SDS drill and bit for concrete or a high-speed steel drill bit for steel. Neither of these will be easy to use. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 9. The overlap does not really matter; you can get by with an inch. What is important is that the pole is supported over its entire length. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 3. If the stub is not located in the proper mounting location, toggle bolts can work to safely secure the heavy drapes on the drywall.
Not Helpful 4 Helpful 4. The curtain pole is usually held by hooks attached to the wall. Remove the pole from the hooks, and insert it through the designated holes in the curtains. You can then hang it back up on the hooks. Not Helpful 5 Helpful 1. I am installing a ft. The rod sags in the middle. How do I prevent this? You need a support bracket thid bracket at the mid point to prevent sagging. There is no way around this at such a length. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 5.
There are specialist fixings for cinder blocks, so you should use these. They can be purchased at your local hardware store. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 4.
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