The D-adze iron is available only with a leather guard. These guards are hand sewn of heavy veg tanned leather just like our knife sheaths. A buckskin thong attaches it to your adze. The adze kits include a leather sheath—the adze irons sold separately do not. Typically my customers assure me they will make a great sheath themselves—rarely do they do so. Just one bad nick on an edge can cost you more than a good sheath. Order a sheath when you order your iron. You'll be glad to have it.
Our adzes are available in a variety of ways. To save money you can buy an iron only. These come with instructions to help you make your adze from a natural tree crook or sawn blank. Our kits contain the iron with a heavy leather guard, a roughed out rock maple haft blank, a length of twine and instructions. All the made-up adzes come with a heavy leather guard and instructions on use. These adzes have awesome balance and are a pleasure to own and use. For the "ready to carve adzes" I am now adding a texture to the grip area of the haft.
They are mo-betta! The photo doesn't really show the texture, but it is there. The photos in this section that pre-date my adding this texture do not have the ring at the top of this gripping surface. Presently I am adding it to all finished adzes. Our Adzes, adze irons and kits all come with a 12 page booklet with 29 photographs and 3 pages of drawings which includes full size adze haft templates.
These materials cover adze use, sharpening and hafting your adze iron. Our adze haft blanks are Eastern Rock Maple. I have added to the value of the adze kits by rough shaping the haft. This gives the carver something to go by when finishing the shape. It is natural for a person new to these tools to be somewhat conservative when shaping the haft — to make these tools really sweet there is a lot of wood that must be removed before the carver will end up with a tool with the right balance and correct functionality.
My pre-shaping will get you to where you need to go much faster. All of the kits include haft, iron and heavy duty leather sheath and a length of nylon twine for the wrapping. If you are ordering an iron only you may request a length of twine to go with it. Sheaths can be purchased separately as well, and I strongly recommend getting a sheath for your adze iron.
Spools of twine are available on the 'Store' page. There are so many possibilities it can be confusing—it needn't be. We sell two types of adze: the elbow adze and the D-adze. Most of the advantage lies with the elbow adze. I do not recommend you buy a D-adze unless you know why you want it. Gutter adzes are good for wasting wood with and across the grain. If I was starting with one tool, I'd choose the Sitka Gutter adze.
Straight adzes are somewhat more traditional on the coast. Many carvers use them almost exclusively; mask makers consider them essential. They are especially good for flat accurate cuts. An adze does not rebound like a hammer on a nail, so it is a mistake to buy too heavy an adze. For this reason, smaller people and those with less powerful wrists should stay with the baby adzes.
Fast accurate cuts are better than wild flailing with a heavier tool. Featuring an easy to manipulate handle that can be either pretty short your rather long depending on how you plan to use the adze , the shape of this axe like tool is very distinct.
It has a pretty large, rectangular head on it that can be sharpened to a point — but it sits at a right angle to the handle as opposed to perpendicular the way that a traditional axe head does, giving it more of a hoe shape than anything else. As mentioned above, this tool predates pretty much any other tool archaeologists have ever discovered.
Stone Age adzes have been found throughout Europe but these tools have also been found in Australia, in North America, and even in ancient Egypt. It seems to be a design that was universal in its adaptation, with early humans making the most of this tool pretty much all over the world even though they warrant in communication with one another.
Today, an adze may not be used as often to hollow out a canoe, work wood for other tools or construction materials, or be all that useful in the garden or around the homestead the way it would have been more than years ago.
Instead, this tool gets a lot of use by adventurers and explorers that want a multipurpose tool that they can depend on in a variety of different situations. The overwhelming majority of modern adzes are going to be hand forged options as opposed to mass-produced materials which the gives them a little bit of extra charm, particularly for those that want to use these the way that early craftsmen use them in their trade. Though there are multiple variations of both these, these are the two main categories that all adzes are going to fall into — and they do not usually have all that much overlap with one another as far as their utility is concerned.
A hand adze, on the other hand, is much lighter, much smaller, and designed to be used with just a single hand — allowing you to work on material that can be positioned pretty much anywhere including on a workbench in a way that foot adzes would have a tough time with. The second thing you want to think about before you grab a new adze is how the head itself has actually been designed.
Some options are going to have a much more pronounced arc, others are going to be almost pickax in nature, and others still are basically going to be flat across — designed for carving into incredibly hard materials like ice and other hardwoods.
Not only will the shape of the head come into play but the size of the head is a huge factor as well. Heavier duty adzes are designed to tear through bigger chunks of material in a slightly more haphazard way compared to lighter weight adzes that are designed with precision and accuracy of strikes in mind.
This is a very simple and straightforward adze, a tool designed for carpenters, woodworkers, sculptors, and other tradespeople that want to replicate — and really duplicate — the results that craftspeople that came before them were producing before power tools were even imagined. The head itself is a single piece of drop forged steel weighing in at 1.
A claw hammer with a nail hole on the opposite side makes this a very versatile tool indeed. This product is best for craftspeople that want as authentic a hand tool as possible, even if it is just a bit heavier than most other hand adzes. Very much a modern reimagining of the traditional adze, this tool has the exact same design features of the traditional adzes made hundreds of years ago — thousands of years ago, really — but has replaced all of those parts with modern construction materials and engineering.
The handle itself is just slightly over 14 inches long and is made entirely out of high-strength fiberglass that shaves a lot of weight from this tool compared to other options.
Another handy feature of the bowl-carving adze is that it tends to feature a straight edge on the inside of the blade. This effectively allows the blade to lift itself back out of the wood after impact, making it an efficient and precise tool to use. It can be used both to shape and smooth a bowel, so this is a great one-tool project for anyone taking on the hand adze as a hobby tool. Unlike the foot adze which is used at a low level, the hand adze is often used at hip or chest height.
With safety in mind, the grip on the hand adze needs to be firm and strong. With your dominant hand gripping the handle, your wrist should lead the swing, with the elbow then drawing the adze back as the blade makes contact with the wood, removing a shave from its surface. Chipping too deep into the food, for example, the blade can get stuck, while weak or badly angled strikes can glance off the wood completely. As a general guide, the blade should chip just far enough into the wood to start, continue, or remove a single shave.
The adze is a versatile tool, not only in the number of variations which exist, but in terms of the results and effects which can be achieved with a single model. By playing around with the power and arc of the swing, and the angle at which the blade makes contact with the wood, you can achieve diverse and numerous results.
Please note that the adze is often confused, usually by scholars, with the mattock. They are not the same. The adze blade usually has a greater curvature, to ease the removal of material, has a handle suited for the task, and is sharpened on the inner edge leaving a sharp outer edge to improve accuracy of the material removal during use. The mattock blade, meanwhile, is generally less curved, to facilitate ground penetration, has a straight shock absorbing handle, and is sharpened on the outside edge usually leaving a sharpened inner edge to improve visibility and leverage in moving dirt.
I have used both of these implements on the farm — which is why I no longer farm, they represent hard labor and long days so I developed other skills.
Your email address will not be published. Comments What is the pole of a shipwrights adz used for? With the adze held straight out in front of you, the bevel is on the side toward you.
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